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A Slow Boil Against Fast Food
Ed and Barbara Beltrami, both wine and food writers from Long Island, N.Y., are the new self-appointed "American mama and papa" of the Slow Food crusade. They are not militants staging boycotts; their plan is to form local chapters across the U.S., each distributing lists of establishments that earn their seal of the snail. "We don't necessarily mean gourmet," says Barbara, 49, "or expensive. It could be pasta or a burger. It means fresh ingredients, grown with care, deliberately prepared, leisurely enjoyed."
And as Ed, 55, pointed out in his address to the first annual convention in Paris, Americans too readily accept "slovenly, hasty and often rude service in many of our restaurants and food shops." The admirable civility of the Slow Food movement could limit its impact. But, as Barbara says, "We're not fanatics. If we were on the road, of course we'd go to McDonald's. We wouldn't die first."
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