CBS (Fridays, 8:30 P.M. ET)

B+

The latest show from producer Gary David (Family Ties) Goldberg is this vivid nostalgicom, an ethnicized version of The Wonder Years, about growing up Jewish in Brooklyn in 1956.

Though the exteriors look like a soundstage, once the action moves inside the family's apartment house, the visual details are wonderful. You can almost feel the worn mah-jongg tiles as grandmother (Marion Ross) and her cronies slap them on the table.

The cast is marvelous, including Amy Aquino and Peter Friedman as the parents, Louis Zorich and Ross as the Russian immigrant grandparents who live downstairs, Danny Gerard, who recently starred on Broadway in Neil Simon's Lost in Yonkers, as the 14-year-old protagonist and Matthew Siegel as his younger brother.

Gerard's precocious character can be hard to take. He's a great athlete, attractive to girls, loyal to his friends and able to rattle off a detailed history of the Suez Canal crisis off the top of his head. Goldberg troweled on the wish fulfillment a little thick here.

The episodes have grown slower and schmaltzier since the gripping pilot, but this series is still as sweet as an egg cream made with Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Syrup.