Picks and Pans Review: Ugly Betty

updated 10/02/2006 AT 01:00 AM EDT

originally published 10/02/2006 AT 01:00 AM EDT

ABC (Thursdays, 8 p.m. ET)

The devil does not wear a poncho from Guadalajara. In this delicious over-the-top comedy—look, everyone, a bottomless bag of candy from ABC!—that fashion faux pas is committed by Betty Suarez (America Ferrera). A garishly frumpy young woman who looks like the lost sister of Saturday Night Live's Fred Armisen, Betty is a new hire at a fashion magazine called Mode. In the cutthroat world of couture and publishing, Betty, who's as quick-thinking as she is style-deprived, proves indispensable to her playboy boss, Daniel Meade. He's played by Eric Mabius with a perfect mix of decent intentions, callow fun and maybe incurable stupidity.

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