Picks and Pans Review: France

UPDATED 06/25/1979 at 01:00 AM EDT Originally published 06/25/1979 at 01:00 AM EDT

How does a nation of chic gastronomes keep slim enough for their YSLs, Givenchys and Cardins? By luxuriating not in wine or butter sauces but in water—soaking and massaging in it, being sprayed with it, even drinking it—preferably natural springs like Vittel, Evian and Vichy. At chef Michel Guérard's hotel Les Prés in Eugénie-les-Bains, water treatments can be arranged in conjunction with his low-cal cuisine minceur, where the obese become odalisque. More astringent is the Institute of Thalassotherapy in Quiberon, Brittany. There folks like Donald Sutherland, Catherine Deneuve and Simone Signoret have gone for seaweed baths and hot ocean mud packs.

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