Picks and Pans Review: Party Spirit

updated 10/01/1979 at 01:00 AM EDT

originally published 10/01/1979 01:00AM

by Robert Farrar Capon

Father Capon is an Episcopal minister and master chef. Cooks with his Supper of the Lamb in their kitchen library know that he mixes wonderful recipes for both food and living with a kind of joyful abandon: "Gourmet cookery is mostly fakery. It aims not at enhancing the natural flavors of food, but at triggering a conditioned reflex to some Official Boy Cook 'gourmet taste'...I arrived at this intelligence by stewing a random sample of practicing gourmets in water only." Most of Capon's dishes run to the elegant (Layered Lamb and Wheat, Scampi with Cream, Terrine de Campagne), but his instructions are careful and explicit. This is that rare recipe book that is fun to read and is guaranteed to enhance a party. (Morrow, $8.95)

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