Picks and Pans Review: Dining Out & Dining In

updated 09/21/1981 AT 01:00 AM EDT

originally published 09/21/1981 AT 01:00 AM EDT

by Sheila Geoghegan and Bonnie Fitzpatrick

Want to sample those three-martini lunches and expensive dinners with which Washington bigwigs ply each other? The authors offer dishes from D.C.-area restaurants (seldom previously noted for distinction) that can be duplicated at home with relatively common, if expensive, ingredients. The French chef at the Madison Hotel's Montpelier Room, for instance, offers smoked trout with caviar and sauce mousseline russe. The French-continental restaurant 1789 recommends a rabbit-with-peppercorns dish that uses a quart of cream. Fitzpatrick is a D.C. high school guidance counselor. Geoghegan is a personal assistant to columnist James Kilpatrick, who in the book's foreword extols the capital's eateries. We are not told, alas, which dishes what wheeler-dealers use to wheel which dealees. (EPM Publications Inc., McLean, Va. 22101, $12.50)

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