Picks and Pans Review: The Chicken Ranch

UPDATED 10/11/1982 at 01:00 AM EDT Originally published 10/11/1982 at 01:00 AM EDT

by Jan Hutson

Yes, Texas, there really was a Best Little Whorehouse. It was just outside Houston, and this brief, chatty chronicle details its existence from 1844, when it was opened by a madam named Miss Swine, to 1974, when it was closed under pressure from TV consumer reporter Marvin Zindler. (The story was originally told by Larry King in a magazine article that he turned into the hit play.) Sheriff Jim Flournoy was no Burt Reynolds; he was 73 when the place was closed. Edna Milton, the brothel's last proprietress, was elegant but no Dolly Parton. Milton had a set of strict instructions printed for employees and guests, including the following for mealtimes: "Decent or reasonable manners are expected of everyone eating at my table; suitable subjects are to be discussed while eating. Not everyone can eat while filthy talk is going on. In fact, as far as I am concerned, the filthy talk can wait forever." (A.S. Barnes, $5.95)

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