Picks and Pans Review: Victorian Ices & Ice Cream
by A.B. Marshall
This book arrives just in time for hot weather. Its 117 recipes from 1885 by a 19th century cooking instructor have been updated for today's cooks by food historian Barbara Ketcham Wheaton. The new electric ice cream-making machines would make any of these dishes a breeze. But perhaps what we ought to concentrate on are the ices, which have a lot of sugar, but no cream. There are ices made from fruits and berries such as apricots, black currants, cranberries, grapes, melons, lemons...So who cares if it's a long, sweltering summer? (Scribners/Metropolitan Museum of Art, $9.95)
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