Picks and Pans Review: Ladies and Gentlemen, Start Your Utensils

updated 01/19/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 01/19/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

By this time, everybody ought to have figured out how to work all the food processors and microwave ovens they got for Christmas. Now to put those folks to the test. Some 800 cookbooks were published in the U.S. in 1986, a bumper harvest. The new books reflect changing tastes: less salt and sugar, more exotic fruits, vegetables and fresh fish and more than a little nostalgia. Some of the current food tomes are good reading, some are good cooking, a few measure up in both categories. Here is the pick of the crop:

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