Picks and Pans Review: Saucing the Fish

updated 01/19/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 01/19/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Shirley King

Thy ocean is so wide, oh, Shirley, and my supermarket's fish department is so small. Where have all these varieties of briny beauties been hiding anyway? King, a New York restaurant chef and caterer, offers a huge selection of fast and delectable fish recipes. Along with the usual standbys are whitefish, wolffish, tilefish, skate, smelt, sea urchins and shark. Note the lobster steamed in beer—fun for the cook and not the worst way to go for the lobster. (Simon and Schuster, $16.95)

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