Picks and Pans Review: The Heritage of Southern Cooking

updated 02/23/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 02/23/1987 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Camille Glenn

The author grew up in her family's small hotel in Dawson Springs, Ky. where, "Many times while we were eating a delicious meal at the family table, we would be reminded of and discuss other dishes that would have been good too, and would recall memorable meals that we had had in foreign countries, in restaurants, or at home." This book has an irresistible quality: Let's chat about these recipes until you are weak with hunger. Everything from appetizers to desserts is included, with an added chapter just on brunches. Almost every cookbook has a recipe for biscuits. Is Ms. Glenn's recipe for "Southern Buttermilk Biscuits" any different from others? Not much, but she does suggest putting the dough in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes before rolling it out, and, sure enough, the biscuits do rise higher and seem lighter. There are more than 500 dishes in this volume, including some of the richest desserts in the Western world. This inspiring book is published by the same folks who brought out the two wonderful Silver Palate cookbooks. Ms. Glenn writes a newspaper food column and has had a cooking school in Louisville. Heritage follows the excellent Silver Palate design with plenty of space for chatty introductions, explanations and suggestions for a whole meal's menu. (Workman, $14.95)

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