Picks and Pans Review: Oysters

updated 02/08/1988 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 02/08/1988 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Lonnie Williams and Karen Warner

Here is a bible of the bivalve, chockablock with tidbits of oyster lore. The authors—Williams is a chef in San Francisco and Warner a West Coast food writer—believe the legend that the Greek goddess Aphrodite rose from the sea with the divine duty to make love, inspiring the belief that seafood possesses amour-enhancing qualities. The oyster's nutritional contents, they argue, "contribute to the efficiency of the sex glands." Whatever, this little pearl of a book packs in the information. A list of 38 varieties of North American oysters is helpful. Four shucking methods are described, one using microwaves. Vivid photographs illustrate most of the nearly 100 recipes—one for a baked oyster and wild mushroom casserole, one for oysters with pancetta and leeks, one for oysters Benedict—all fit for an Aphrodite or even a Rockefeller. (101 Productions, 834 Mission Street, San Francisco, Calif., 94103. $10.95)

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