Picks and Pans Review: The Modern Seafood Cook

updated 11/27/1995 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 11/27/1995 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Edward Brown and Arthur Boehm

Edward Brown grew up hating fish—until he landed a job, at 17, near the New Jersey shore unloading the catch of the day, which, he writes, "gleamed like the brightest new coins." Thus hooked, he went on to become executive chef at Manhattan's acclaimed Sea Grill restaurant, where he has his creative way with shrimp, scallops, squid and more. Brown's goal is to preserve the natural flavor of seafood, which, he says, is all too often ruined by overcooking and overdressing. This array of recipes—lobster salad, Thai fish cakes, tuna dumplings—is appealing enough to reel in even the most loyal carnivores. (Clarkson Potter, 27.50)

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