Picks and Pans Review: A Well-Seasoned Appetite

updated 11/27/1995 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 11/27/1995 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Molly O'Neill

A few years ago O'Neill, a New York Times food columnist, was eyeing the chic young passersby at a Paris cafe when she realized she was no longer a spring chicken. Instead of dwelling on age, however, she began to ponder food—specifically, "a world in which the tenderest chicken is no longer limited to spring." Hence this marvelous collection. From summery peach butter to a rosemary butternut bisque, these dishes are aimed at steering us back to nature's annual rhythms and away from our seasons-be-damned pantries. And not to worry: O'Neill hasn't left out the spring chickens—not in a pot, but deliciously roasted. (Viking, $25.95)

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