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Picks and Pans Review: Apples Lemons

UPDATED 12/06/1993 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 12/06/1993 at 01:00 AM EST

by Christopher Idone
Photography by Kathryn Kleinman

Consider the humble potato. Now consider it skewered and dressed with rosemary, garlic and olive oil ready to broil; or transformed into a Parmesan puff; scalloped in cream and butter; mixed with cabbage the Irish way; tossed into a goulash; or scrambled with fluffy eggs. And that's just a taste of the creative turns that Waldron, a La Varenne graduate, takes with solarium tuberosum, while Idone, the author of Glorious Food and consultant to the PBS MasterChef series, tends to two common fruits in the newest additions in this practical, warmly photographed series.

Lemons find their way into soups and stocks, salads and sauces, main dishes and (bien sur!) desserts. Apples get tarted up, turned over, carmelized, glazed and pickled. Instructions are simple and ingredients are spare, which allows cooks as much lime to savor a dish as to prepare it. (Collins, $19.95)

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