Picks and Pans Review: Simply French

updated 12/02/1991 at 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/02/1991 01:00AM

Patricia Wells presents the cuisine of Joël Robuchon

With the fervor of a convert, Wells divides her cooking life into B.R. and A.R.—Before and After Robuchon. Fans of her best-selling Bistro Cooking may not have found the B.R. Wells lacking, but they will want to follow her to this loftier plateau. Robuchon, owner and chef of the three-star restaurant Jamin in Paris, calls his cooking cuisine actuelle, a style that brings out the essence of ingredients, be they foie gras or mashed potatoes. In this visually exquisite book, Wells translates 125 of Robuchon's innovative recipes for the home cook and includes many tips that could transform the way you work in the kitchen. Lamb tarts are elaborate and challenging. Beef tenderloin roasted in a salt crust is unusual and easy to prepare. You'll learn on every page. (Morrow, $35)

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