Picks and Pans Review: Dungeness Crabs and Blackberry Cobblers

updated 12/02/1991 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/02/1991 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Janie Hibler

Hibler, a Portland, Oreg., food writer, has good cause to celebrate the region's vast bounty. Indigenous to this majestic corner of the U.S. are not just Dungeness crabs but Olympia oysters, Chinook salmon and an array of waterfowl, wild mushrooms and juicy berries. Hibler's soups are savory, her breads robust, her meal and game dishes he-man enough to fell a forest, and her desserts are like a passkey to childhood. (Knopf, $23)

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