Picks and Pans Review: Family of the Spirit

updated 12/10/1990 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/10/1990 AT 01:00 AM EST

by John Pinderhughes

Soul food isn't passe. Its secrets, affectionately handed down from one generation to another, are still reflected in satisfying dishes that recall good times and good people. Such is the spirit that raises this collection of everyday recipes, culled by Pinderhughes, a professional photographer and cook, to the level of a communal celebration. Aunt Margie adds her hearty smothered steak; from Frenchy comes grits and cheese, enlivened with paprika, while Pinderhughes's grandmother, Gram T, offers a tasty brown Betty. Whew, with eats like these, this spirit is not just friendly; it's probably sated too. (Simon and Schuster. $24.95)

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