Picks and Pans Review: Rose's Christmas Cookies

updated 12/10/1990 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/10/1990 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Rose Levy Beranbaum

After cooking your way through this indispensable reference, you can't help but be a cookie master. Beranbaum, author of The Cake Bible, has organized 60 of her favorites, which include dreambars, dog bones (for Fido), fruitcake tartlets, moist madeleines and beautiful Christmas wreaths dotted with redhots. There are cookies for every taste and level of skill, ranging from easy cocoa brownies to a gingerbread version of Notre Dame Cathedral with flying buttresses that requires 10 pages of directions. Beranbaum hammers in the basics (never store soft and crisp cookies together) and the not so basic (older egg whites make better meringues). Anticipating every snag, her detailed instructions tell you how to cut, wrap, store and ship. (Morrow, $19.95)

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