Picks and Pans Review: The Way to Cook

updated 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Julia Child

First you'll need to get out your hydraulic forklift just to hoist this hefty opus onto your kitchen counter. Then you'll want to set the pricey volume under glass to safeguard it from sloppy splatters. Now you're ready to cook with Julia in this, her seventh and most seductive guide on the art of cookery.

It all begins with soup stocks: chicken, beef, chowder and Mediterranean. Variations follow basic recipes. Master the rudiments and you can move on to more elaborate concoctions. Julia will teach you how to clean a leek, truss a turkey, time a pot roast, peel a pearl onion, stuff a sausage, take the "rooti-ti-toots" out of dried beans, flambé with flair and more.

Chapters abound with photographs, savvy tips and an ever-present feel of the master guiding you with a sure hand. This collection of 800-plus recipes, many of them seen in Child's contributions to Parade magazine and her video series, is elementary enough for anyone who wants a perfect poached egg, yet challenging enough for cooks eager to whip a fillet of trout into a mousse. (Knopf, $50)

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