Picks and Pans Review: The Mediterranean Kitchen

updated 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Joyce Goldstein

Beef eaters whose creed dictates that a good steak should never be adulterated with a sauce may want to consider converting just so they can try the Portuguese bife acebollado in this inviting and easy-to-use cookbook. The recipe calls for rib-eye steaks to be marinated in a mixture of wine vinegar, garlic and paprika, and served in its tomato-garlic-onion-olive oil-vinegar-bay leaf-parsley sauce.

Goldstein, owner-chef of the Square One restaurant in San Francisco, never gets too complicated. An appetizer of mushrooms with sherry vinegar, almonds and olive oil is typical, though the more daring may want to try roast duck with honey, lavender and thyme.

This book is a family project. While Goldstein has provided the recipes, her artist daughter, Rachel, has illustrated the pages with line drawings and her son, Evan, has taken charge of the wine list, which will enlighten those unfamiliar with the fruit of Italian or Spanish vineyards. (Morrow, $22.95)

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