Picks and Pans Review: South American Cooking

updated 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 12/11/1989 AT 01:00 AM EST

by Barbara Karoff

Karoff is a San Francisco food writer who came late to Latin American cuisines, but with obvious enthusiasm.

This easy-to-follow book opens with a glossary of South American food terms—especially enlightening for those who can't tell a Habañeros pepper from a bell.

It's an unhappy omission that Karoff doesn't always offer complete menu suggestions with each dish. The recipes are grouped by the appetizer-soup-poultry-etc. categories, but it would be helpful to know what to serve with, say, chicken in fruit sauce.

The recipes are nonetheless alluring. Try the sweet-and-sourish Venezuelan pork with fruit and almonds (pork chops baked with ginger, apricots, raisins, cinnamon and orange juice, among other things) or, from Colombia, potatoes Bogotá-style—baking potatoes prepared with onion, tomatoes, chilies, cream and grated Münster cheese.

This volume has no photographs, but there are drawings by cookbook illustrator Earl Thollander, whose pictures were inspired by several south-of-the-border cruises. (Addison-Wesley, $18.95)

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