Picks and Pans Review: Grandma's Wartime Kitchen

UPDATED 11/27/2000 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 11/27/2000 at 01:00 AM EST

by Joanne Lamb Hayes

Long live goulash! Let's hear it for giant cheese hot dogs! No wonder we won the war! This look back at recipes from the World War II home front will evoke memories for those old enough to call pasta "noodles."

The author, a food historian, traces the origins of dishes such as chop suey, an exotic wartime treat from China—our ally. For emergency steak, mix ground beef with cereal, then shape it like a T-bone. And not just the enemy ate sauerkraut: Croquettes made of the plentiful pickled cabbage adorned many a Yank table during the war. (St. Martin's, $27.95)

Bottom Line: Our finest hour, with flour

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