Picks and Pans Review: Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchen
by Tom Douglas
More revenge of the nerds: Seattle, famous for computer geeks and that goofy Space Needle, has become a gastronomic mecca. The booming local economy helps explain the profusion of great restaurants where chefs like Tom Douglas are inspired by the region's Asian population and the daily catch of salmon, oysters, giant clams and monster crabs. Douglas's Seattle Kitchen features such recipes from his three eateries as Sake-cured, Hot-Smoked Salmon from the Dahlia Lounge or Dungeness Crabcakes with Green Cocktail Sauce, a specialty of his Etta's Seafood. "Bread crumbs made from cheap white bread are a key ingredient," he reveals. But many dishes require stuff like flying-fish roe—hard to find unless you live in Seattle.
After sniffing the aromas emanating from this Kitchen, you may be inspired to move there. Douglas, who bears the honest paunch of a man who makes Barbecue Pork Butt Tacos, leads readers on mouthwatering tours of his favorite fish markets, butcher stores, microbreweries and Vietnamese fast-food stands. "In some cities, McDonald's rules," he writes, "but Seattle is ruled by teriyaki joints." Easy, Tom—even Paris has Big Macs, but we like your enthusiasm. And your chow. (Morrow, $30)
Bottom Line: Puget Sound advice for adventurous cooks
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