Picks and Pans Review: Bobby Flay Cooks American

UPDATED 11/19/2001 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 11/19/2001 at 01:00 AM EST

Great Regional Recipes with Sizzling New Flavors
By Bobby Flay with Julia Moskin

On the Food Network, Bobby Flay whips up spicy food with a southwestern accent. In this, his fourth cookbook, Flay roams the rest of the U.S. in search of inspiration. There's nothing traditional about his New England clam chowder with sweet potatoes or his gumbo without okra , which may be illegal in some southern states. Some classics, however, shouldn't be tampered with (his crawfish lasagna comes to mind). The book was in the works long before Sept. 11, but its patriotic nod to American fare is now more relevant than ever. (Hyperion, $34.95)

Bottom Line: New twists on classic dishes aren't fully cooked

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