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Picks and Pans Review: Modern Greek

UPDATED 11/18/2002 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 11/18/2002 at 01:00 AM EST

By Andy Harris

As a part-time resident of Greece since childhood, Andy Harris knows the food well, and his book is comprehensive. Best are the recipes for mezedes—the small snacks like Wild Greens Fritters or Feta and Mint Dip that are served in countless Greek tavernas. Americans who think Greek food is Spinach Pie and Pastitsio will be surprised by the depth of flavors here—as evidenced by Spiced Swordfish Fillets with Amaranth (a green similar to spinach). In contrast to the exciting food (and enticing photos), the book's prose is strangely dispassionate; we want to know more about where Harris discovered these recipes and what he likes about them. Less travelogue and more culinary context might have made this book an Olympian. (Chronicle, $22.95)

Bottom Line: Not quite a classic

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