Picks and Pans Review: The Pleasures of Slow Food

UPDATED 11/18/2002 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 11/18/2002 at 01:00 AM EST

By Corby Kummer

The title refers to the international organization called Slow Food, which promotes local food from small farms. That shouldn't connote expensive and gourmet but often does. Here food writer Kummer bridges that gap in a book that includes ambitious but earthy recipes from top chefs (such as Soft Shell Crab Bisque from Alice Waters) and profiles of dedicated farmers (like Jim Gerritsen, who left San Francisco to grow potatoes in Maine). If you've got the time, they've got the grub. (Chronicle, $40)

Bottom Line: Rush to buy—then take it slow

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