Picks and Pans Review: The Vegetarian Table: America

UPDATED 12/09/1996 at 01:00 AM EST Originally published 12/09/1996 at 01:00 AM EST

by Deborah Madison

Think comfort food and you think of meatless, creamy concoctions like macaroni and cheese and mashed potatoes. Here are old-fashioned classics with a New World twist—like Fried Blue Corn Mush with Green Chilies or savory Mushroom Stew with Giant Popovers. Some of the desserts are sublime: The Concord Grape Pie has the inky richness of blackberries, and a hint of that Welch's flavor from childhood. (Chronicle, $22.95)

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