by Merle Ellis
To hear Ellis tell it, this is the land of the free and the home of the carnivores. The he-man gets an extra friendly nod in this volume, with recipes for Son-of-a-Gun Stew, Ranch-Style Smothered Steak and Rio Grande Pork Roast. But a section defending veal doesn't do much to whet the appetite, nor does the author's paean to the hog-killin' times of his Sioux City youth. (Knopf, $30)
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