Picks and Pans Review: Taste Pure and Simple

updated 11/10/2003 AT 01:00 AM EST

originally published 11/10/2003 AT 01:00 AM EST

HEALTH/GOURMET
By Michel Nischan with Mary Goodbody

For people who crave flavor with less fat, Nischan, who developed the I menu at the gourmet health-food restaurant Heartbeat in New York City, provides plenty of engaging new ideas, though these recipes are far from simple. Nischan relies on unusual starchy bases like rutabaga juice to thicken sauces. And high-end ingredients like sashimi-grade fluke and truffles will definitely take weight off your wallet. This isn't food to whip up on a weeknight, but it's nice to find a top chef thinking beyond the butter dish.

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