Picks and Pans Review: Hell's Kitchen

updated 04/07/2008 AT 01:00 AM EDT

originally published 04/07/2008 AT 01:00 AM EDT

FOX, April 1, 9 p.m. ET |

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"I'm a true culinary," states Matt, a sous-chef and contestant on the fourth season of Gordon Ramsay's cook-off, before serving up his signature "exotic tartare": diver scallops, raw venison, caviar, capers and white chocolate. Ramsay's reaction? Turn down the sound on your TV—especially if you've got a weak stomach. Yes, once again things in the kitchen quickly get nasty, with Ramsay barking like a sadistic sergeant at his 15 frazzled underlings, who are competing for a job at his new L.A. restaurant, but not before he goes undercover in a wig and fake nose to sniff them all out. It's no Top Chef—those contestants can actually cook, whereas this group appears to be doing their best not to catch fire—but it's wickedly delicious fun all the same.

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