03/09/2009 at 01:00 AM EDT
Channeling the regal beauty of Grace Kelly, the Best Actress winner oozes old Hollywood glam with a "soft, slicked back" look full of body and waves, says Winslet's hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai's Renato Campora. But he didn't want to go too over-the-top retro: "I wanted it to be modern, dynamic and show the face," says Campora, who was also inspired by the star's asymmetrical Atelier Yves Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati gown. "It's the Oscars—you want to look good but not overdone."
Cruz's hairstylist Andy LeCompte of Solo Artists pulled the Best Supporting Actress winner's hair into a "clean, beautiful chignon" so it wouldn't compete with her vintage Pierre Balmain gown. "Penélope just kept saying, 'Like a ballerina!'"