Picks and Pans Review: Cake Boss

updated 06/01/2009 AT 01:00 AM EDT

originally published 06/01/2009 AT 01:00 AM EDT

TLC, May 25, 10 p.m. ET/PT |

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Buddy Valastro, who runs his family's Italian bakery in Hoboken, N.J., whips up vast, elaborate cakes that require visual inspiration, infrastructural forethought and lots of molding chocolate. For what he refers to as a "fashionista" cake, he simulates quilted leather out of icing. The show is very slight but sweet—a dolce course to Bravo's brassy Real Housewives of New Jersey.

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