Picks and Pans Review: Amanda Hesser's
To compile the 932-page Essential New York Times Cook Book, Hesser (food52.com) tested 1,400 recipes from 1852 to today.
In 1895 they ate raspberry granita.
WHAT'S DUE FOR A COMEBACK?
Forget-It Meringue Torte (1978). You put it in a tube pan and leave it overnight. WHAT got left out? Terrapin [turtle]. I wanted only things people would want to try.
YOUR TWINS ARE NOW 4. DID THEY TEST-TASTE?
Almost every dish in the book; at first I pureed everything. They loved Fruit Marlow (1948).