04/21/2004 at 01:00 AM EDT
By Thursday night it'll be all over for the original West Hollywood site of Spago, the once-trendy eaterie popularized by California chef Wolfgang Puck. The Beverly Hills version took away the luster -- and celebrity clientele -- from Puck's first famous kitchen, which opened just above the Sunset Strip in 1982 and gained notoriety for being the annual site of late agent Irving "Swifty" Lazar's A-list Oscar-night parties. (Lazar died in 1993, along with his party.) Don't cry for Puck, however. Besides his 10 other restaurants, he's built a food empire. Just check your local supermarket's frozen-food display case.