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BIGGEST TANGLE OF RED STRING

Like a good Kabbalist, Madonna trekked to Israel Sept. 15 with about 2,000 fellow students of the Jewish mysticism. The singer, who adopted the Hebrew name Esther, arrived in Tel Aviv by private jet just before Rosh Hashanah, the celebration of the Jewish new year. While tourism officials said they were excited, some Israelis weren't so happy. "I hope she's aware of where she is going," said one protester outside Rachel's Tomb on the West Bank, a religious site on Madonna's itinerary.